Driving the rental car out of Rome was a hairy experience we’ll never want to do again. (Rules, what rules?) We could feel a tangible release as we drove deeper and deeper into the country. On our way to Tuscany, we stopped at Civita di Bagnoregio, a town perched above layered sandstone canyons. It was pretty obvious that any enemy was going to have a hard time attacking this place … though I’d guess getting foodstuffs there might be just as difficult. After pushing the stroller up the steep pedestrian bridge, we stopped for some bruschetta and watched the waitress slice pieces of prosciutto off the leg of a pig with a knife. (The prosciutto here is so much deeper and richer than stuff in America, which now seems watery by comparison.) Stella made friends with the waitress, whose family has lived in the town for generations. The waitress’ mother came by and practically gobbled up her fat little thighs. It was nice to rest a spell with this amazing view and think about the Etruscans who first carved out this city and its route to civilization. Not a lot of people live in the town permanently now — but I guess that’s why it’s well preserved.