Why does L.A. do the burger so well? Is it that the city came of age in the same era (the 1950s and 60s) as the burger joint? We finally made it to Pie ‘n Burger on Saturday and stepped into a different world as we sat down at the formica counter. A sassy waitress took our order. There was a lady sitting next to us with a sweater tied around her neck, eating a tuna sandwich plate with fruit and cottage cheese. The walls were decorated with wallpaper — the first time I’ve seen that in years. Pie n’ Burger has a pretty limited menu — hamburgers come with or without cheese, typically with lettuce and thousand island dressing. They ask if you want grilled onions. You have to ask for tomatoes. I got the works. “This whole thing is a symphony of flavors,” I told Bryan. “But I can only guess that there’s meat in there somewhere.” Bryan, who got only bun, meat and cheese, proclaimed that the stripped-down burger was good as well, so I’ll have to take his word for it.