We were waiting all day for dinner at Umami Burger. Bryan suggested we meet up with his friend Hans there. The Los Feliz location used to house one branch of the tony tapas place Cobras & Matadors. I wondered whether its replacement with a burger joint — even if an upscale one — was a sign of the times. Still, I’m always up for a tasty burger. I knew it was going to be good when the neon sign at the front of the store said “how fun” because the c in “chow fun” was dark. I ordered the house burger; Bryan ordered the truffle burger; Hans ordered the “manly burger” (which had beer-cheddar cheese, onion strings and bacon lardons!). We also got a side of triple-cooked fries. All hail the fifth taste, umami, also known as savoriness, meatiness, or the reason MSG is so frickin delicious! The burger flavor was deep and satisfying; there wasn’t too much bread. I burned my tongue on the first fry, but, after waiting a minute or two, I savored their perfect balance of outside crispness and inside mush. No wonder the place was packed.