Our amble through the Quiraing in the northwestern Skye gave us the most spectacular views of the entire trip. We passed rock formations with names like the Prison, the Needle and the Table. We had a great time making our way over rolling, emerald hills and scrambling over scree (a new word we learned when a fellow hiker warned us about the fragments of shattered rocks covering a slope). The wind was stiff, but the sun came out for a few hours. Everything sparkled. By the time the sun resumed its regular position behind clouds, we had driven past many crofts and started browsing stores in Portree. “That’ll probably be the last sun I see for the rest of the year,” sighed one of the shop girls. (How sad — but another sign we were a long way from Los Angeles!) We drove to Inverness that evening and warmed ourselves up with the most delicious version of minestrone soup I’ve ever had (butternut squash, green beans, peas, finished with a spinach and basil pesto) at Rocpool, overlooking the River Ness.