We were as grumpy as the weather in Glasgow. Driving here drove us mad. We missed nearly every turn because the street signs were small or nonexistent. We went around in circles because random streets were closed for construction or turned into pedestrian-only walkways. We were only happy when we got out of the car. We were thankful to spend a few hours wandering around the Charles Rennie Mackintosh-designed Glasgow School of Art. On a tour led by an art student, we got to see the lovely dark-wood paneled library, airy meeting rooms and the heating/”air-conditioning” system that used to draw air over ice to cool rooms. I love Mackintosh’s devotion to grids and his embrace of organic forms against them. He had a sense of humor, too; he appeared to have decorated one of the fireplaces with the shape of his own mustache. We were still and content again in the evening, when we had dinner at Arisaig, a contemporary Scottish restaurant. We savored a robust Aberdeen steak and crannachan, a really creamy traditional dessert that was probably as healthy as eating butter straight.